Mar
7
We decided we needed a little culture, a little break from the spring cleaning and hopped into the Touran along with the Duncans and headed for the Dentelles.
The Dentelles is a small mountain range which encircles part of the Rhone valley - so called as ‘dentelle‘ is French for lace. The peaks are delicate even if you can’t escape the imposing Mount Ventoux in the distance.
We travelled the scenic route and entered the area at the tiny, desolated village of Le Barreaux. Dwarfed by its XIVth Century chateau the village cries out for love, attention and many euros.
[roof top view of the old village]
We did not delay too much and headed off for the Roman town of Vaison la Romaine.
Orange and Vaison are two of the best preserved Roman towns in France. The forum is well looked after and accessible to visitors.
[part of the Roman Forum - parts of it looks like our new wood shed]
Vaison la Romaine is very popular with wealthy Parisians in the summer and the houses and shops reflect this. It has a great market in the season.
Seated at the Festival Cafe in the town square for lunch, we were presented with the programme for the 27th Vaison Regional Rally. It was very well supported and boasted over 100 participants. We tried to get to see the start at 14h30 but a combination of tartiflette pizza, rose and lack of directions conspired against us.
We did, however, see the ‘pits’ - not quite Formula 1 standard:
[snow capped Mont Ventoux in the distance]
Jean-Pierre had often told us to go and visit Beaumes de Venise - the muscat ‘capital’ of the world. We found it and what a treasure. Domaines pepper the hillsides which are crammed with vines in every nook and cranny.
We chose Domaine des Bernardins (www.domaine-des-bernardins.com) as our first stop on the outskirts of the village. In the well appointed tasting room we found displays of muscat hailing from 1839. We discovered that a domaine has to produce 12 consecutive ‘acceptable’ vintages before they can carry the appellation of ‘Beaumes de Venise’.
[1839 is a serious vintage]
[historic bottles]
[to-day's range - muscat and red]
After making a few purchases (Jean-Pierre has introduced us to the delights of foie gras and muscat), we drove into the quaint village. There are many restaurants and cafes as well as little wine shops selling muscat and local unfiltered olive oils.
[wine making and marketing is a very serious business here]
We met a lovely Scottish lady (Sarah? She had a heavy brogue) serving in one of the wine shops (she came to France a few years ago when she ‘met a Frenchman’) which meant that we were able to learn about the delights of the local muscat without straining our fractured French.
She told us that the local olive trees bear a small black fruit - suitable only for pressing in the ancient stone presses, not for eating. Needless to say, a bottle has joined the other 350 in the pantry.
[a typical local olive tree]
A great day out especially when we didn’t spot any gendarmerie on the way home. We have the name of one of the most popular local restaurants - we’ll be back!
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