Take the D900 through the Luberon Valley in the direction of Apt and you will find the unremarkable hamlet of Le Chene (turnoff Gargas). However, nestling alongside the road and surrounded by tall plain trees is the ‘old school’ - La Petite Ecole. Now owed and run as a great little restaurant by Sophie and Denis, La Petite Ecole serves Provençal cooking at its best, and without the price tag of such luminaries such as Les Coquillades now so far further up the road.

The restaurant only accommodates 20 people in the winter - a few more in the sumer where they use the outside terrace under the trees, so booking is absolutely essential and you will struggle to find a tourist. This is strictly local! However, Denis has quite a good command of the English language and will guide you through the menu. There are two set menu options (€22 and €30) and a small a la carte. The wine list is also strictly local and very reasonable priced - a 1 litre carafe of rose sells for €9. The restaurant in inside an old schoolroom, complete with biology and geography posters and clientele sit at school desks. Even the menu is in an old school file on squared paper. It could be trite - it’s not.

Madame started with a fascinating dish -a ‘coquillade‘ of egg and smoked chipped beef, baked in a cream sauce : she pronounced it delicious. She then continued with a steamed caubillard fish dish which was cooked to perfection. Erica started with a fish soup complete with a rouille and grated cheese, followed by confit de canard. The only sounds were slurping of rose, munching of food and sighs of happiness.

I was boring - a smoked salmon salad followed by a medium entrecote with mash and a plum Provençal tomato.

Sophie does a mean cheese platter and Dennis is proud of his hand made ice-cream. Be patient, Denis is front of house and Sophie does the cooking. Every now and then she appears with a big toothy smile and adorned with a paper cap and hands over food. In a time when people can cut corners to make the maximum profit, you leave La Petite Ecole feeling that you have really got your money’s worth. Its the kind of mel you go back for time and again. We certainly do.

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