There has to be a first time for everything. We had never before been to an Opera, not even been to the famous Orange Roman Amphitheatre – reputedly one of the best preserved in the world. We booked.

The day dawned bright and hot – 38 degrees celsius at 20h00! The opera starts ‘fashionably late’, 21h45 and is over three hours long. The mercury never dropped below 30 degrees C and the amphitheatre with 25,000 people + is a sauna (or a refrigerator depending on the season).

crowds queuing up to go into the amphitheatre

Crowds queuing up to go into the amphitheatre

Carmen is an opera in four acts by the French composer Georges Bizet. The libretto was written by Henri Meilhac and Ludovic Halévy, based on a novella of the same title by Prosper Mérimée. The opera was first performed at the Opéra-Comique in Paris, on 3 March 1875, and at first was not particularly successful. Its initial run extended to 36 performances, before the conclusion of which Bizet died suddenly, and thus knew nothing of the opera’s later celebrity.

The opera, written in the genre of opéra comique with musical numbers separated by dialogue, tells the story of the downfall of Don José, a naïve soldier who is seduced by the wiles of the fiery Gypsy, Carmen. José abandons his childhood sweetheart and deserts from his military duties, yet loses Carmen’s love to the glamorous toreador Escamillo, after which José kills her in a jealous rage. The depictions of proletarian life, immorality and lawlessness, and the tragic death of the main character on stage, broke new ground in French opera and were highly controversial.


After the premiere, most reviews were critical, and the French public was generally indifferent. Carmen initially gained its reputation through a series of productions outside France, and was not revived in Paris until 1883; thereafter it rapidly acquired celebrity at home and abroad, and continues to be one of the most frequently performed operas; the “Habanera” from act 1 and the “Toreador Song” from act 2 are among the best known of all operatic arias. Later commentators have asserted that Carmen forms the bridge between the tradition of opéra comique and the realism or verismo that characterised late 19th-century Italian opera.

The music of Carmen has been widely acclaimed for its brilliance of melody, harmony, atmosphere and orchestration, and for the skill with which Bizet musically represented the emotions and suffering of his characters. After the composer’s death the score was subject to significant amendment, including the introduction of recitative in place of the original dialogue; there is no standard edition of the opera, and different views exist as to what versions best express Bizet’s intentions. The opera has been recorded many times since the first acoustical recording in 1908, and the story has been the subject of many screen and stage adaptations.

Our view of Carmen? We found the environment beautiful and atmospheric. The staging was stark and soulless. Not what we had expected, and, a feature of the Orange theatre, is that the higher you are, the less you can hear. Acoustics are not a patch on the Arles Roman amphitheatre.

VIP entrance into a cave and the nthrough a stone passage to the seats

VIP entrance into a cave and the nthrough a stone passage to the seats


2015 is a sunflower specatular!




Seen high up on the Sault plateau near the hamlet of St Jean

Seen high up on the Sault plateau near the hamlet of St Jean


Near Villars

Near Villars



Near St Jean..Sault


Near St Jean

Near St Jean




200 million albums sold; legendary ‘pop’ crossover status and who doesn’t know Volare and Bamboleo? The Gypsy Kings were a force in world music for many years under the guidance and leadership of Chico.

As things happen, Chico and his brother split – Chico had to ‘serve time’ for copyright reasons and could not branch out on his own immediately and use his back catalogue – after all that’s what everyone wants to hear.


The outside of the Arles Amphitheatre

Chico is a son of Arles and the Camargue. Last year he stuck his big toe in the water and had a successful gig in the Arles Roman amphitheatre. This year, he went BIG!

40 cousins and relatives were on rhythm guitar. Three singers, a few guests and his main band: Chico and the Gypsies. All the old favourites. All the old songs. All the excitement and Gypsy spontaneity.


What a show! 30,000 people having a great gypsy party. Pity about the mosquitoes though!!

apparently this is going to be a regular event in Arles : get there!


Some of the crowd packed inot the Arles amphitheatre – providing nice fodder for the mosquitoes.


Spotted at Café de Progres - Ménerbes. This was NOT posed!

Spotted at Café de Progres – Ménerbes. This was NOT posed!

A combination of deadly heat; erratic wi-fi; packing up; moving in; packing up; moving in and then Turkish Airlines to Cape Town all conspired to a hiatus in LSW.

We’re back! Hopefully, not too many of you dear readers have disappeared!

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